How to Deprime Berdan Brass: Practical Tools & Safety
By Amis Thains Updated 5 min read
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases, at no cost to you.
On this page (7 sections)
You just picked up a stack of 7.62×39 or 5.45×39 brass from the range, hoping to deprime it in a hand tool like the Frankford Arsenal, only to find the primer won’t budge. This page explains exactly why standard deprimers fail on Berdan brass and what you actually need to process it.
In short: Most standard hand deprimers and universal press dies are designed for Boxer-primed brass and will not remove crimped Berdan primers. You generally cannot decap Berdan brass using conventional reloading tools without damaging the case. The only viable options are using a specialized crimped-primer tool or separating the primer from the case via high-heat annealing, which is rarely practical for the average reloader.
Quick picks
Our shortlist for this job · tap one to see today's price
If you are switching to Boxer brass, this is the reliable, low-cost standard for press-based depriming.
A dowel pin extractor can help remove jammed or crimped primers from stubborn cases as a last resort.
Why standard deprimers fail on Berdan brass
Most reloading dies and hand tools operate on the principle of pushing the primer out from the inside. This works perfectly for Boxer-primed cases, where the primer is held by a small flange. If that sounds like your bench, read up on deprimer vs decapper tool next.
Berdan brass is different. The primer is crimped into the headstamp by the brass itself. There is no simple flange to push against. When you try to use a standard depriming die or hand tool on a Berdan case, the tool pushes, but the case head doesn’t yield. The result is usually a jammed tool or a damaged case head.
- Boxer Primer: Held by a headstamp flange. Easy to push out.
- Berdan Primer: Crimped into the brass. Very difficult to extract intact.
Safety first: Never use excessive force to pry a crimped primer out of a Berdan case. You risk damaging the case head, which can lead to dangerous pressure spikes when you eventually fire the round.
The specialized tools that handle crimped primers
There are very few tools on the market specifically designed to remove crimped primers. Most are not ‘deprimers’ in the traditional sense, but rather specialized extraction tools.
Some high-capacity reloading setups use a combination of heat and pressure to loosen the crimp, but this is complex and slow. For most shooters, the reality is that you do not decap Berdan brass the way you do 9mm or .308.
Instead, you often separate the primer by destroying the case head integrity or use a specific ‘crimped primer remover’ if available.
If you are looking for a tool to handle both Boxer and Berdan brass in one setup, it generally does not exist in a reliable, safe, and fast manner. You have to choose your brass type based on your tooling. We cover harvey primer removal device in a guide of its own.
Pro tip: If you are buying range brass, check the headstamp before you buy. If it says 7.62×39, it is almost certainly Berdan. If it says .223 or 5.56, it is Boxer.
A specialized tool for crimped primers is the only correct approach, but options are rare and often require careful calibration.
- Triangular Tray that accept all brand of primer boxes
- Ergonomic design
Can you safely anneal or heat Berdan brass?
A common question is whether you can heat the case head to loosen the crimp. Technically, yes, but it is not recommended for the average reloader.
High heat can stress the metal and alter the headspace consistency. It also requires precise temperature control to avoid warping the case. Most shooters find it faster and safer to simply discard Berdan brass that they cannot reliably process, or to source new Boxer brass.
Safety first: Always ensure the primer pocket is completely empty and the case is not loaded before applying any heat or pressure. Live rounds must never be present in your workspace.
Alternatives: Switching to Boxer brass
The most practical solution for most hand-loaders is to use Boxer-primed brass. It is widely available, cheap, and compatible with every modern reloading tool.
If you are using 7.62×39, you can often find mixed Boxer/Berdan brass, but you must sort them. The Berdan cases will not deprime normally. You can keep the Berdan cases for inspection or discard them. It helps to understand choosing a decap tool for brass before going further.
For calibers like .308 Win, 5.56, or 9mm, you are almost certainly using Boxer brass. Use a standard universal depriming die or a hand deprimer for these. They work perfectly and keep your workflow smooth.
For Boxer brass, the hand deprimer is a great tool for high-volume decapping away from the press.
- The patented Universal Collet System deprimes brass from .20 cal up to .338 Lapua
- Features an easily removable spent primer catch tube and an assisted-ejection case
Frequently asked questions
Can I use a Frankford Arsenal deprimer on Berdan brass?
No. The Frankford Arsenal and most similar hand deprimers are designed for Boxer-primed cases. They will not remove crimped Berdan primers and may jam or damage the tool.
What is the difference between Berdan and Boxer primers?
Boxer primers have a cup that is held by a headstamp flange. Berdan primers are crimped into the case head by the brass itself. This makes Berdan primers much harder to remove.
Are there any tools that can remove Berdan primers?
There are specialized tools, but they are rare and often expensive. Most reloaders find it easier to discard Berdan brass or source new Boxer brass instead of trying to decap the crimped cases.
The bottom line
If you are working with Berdan brass, stop trying to use standard deprimers. You will likely jam your tools or damage your cases. The best move is to discard the Berdan brass and switch to Boxer-primed cases, which work with every tool on the market. If you need to deprime Boxer brass in bulk, a hand deprimer is an excellent way to keep your press free.
- The patented Universal Collet System deprimes brass from .20 cal up to .338 Lapua
- Features an easily removable spent primer catch tube and an assisted-ejection case
Frequently asked questions
Why will my deprimer die not pull the primer out of 7.62×39 brass?
Most 7.62×39 brass is Berdan-primed, meaning the primer is crimped into the case. Standard depriming dies work on Boxer primers, which have a removable cup. You need a specialized crimped-primer tool or you should discard the Berdan cases.
Can I force a Berdan primer out with a hammer?
No. Hitting a crimped case head with a hammer will likely deform the case, ruin the headspace, and create a safety hazard. The crimp is part of the case integrity.
Is it worth buying a dedicated Berdan primer removal tool?
Only if you are high-volume loading 7.62×39 and refuse to discard the Berdan brass. For most shooters, buying new Boxer brass is cheaper and faster than maintaining a specialized crimped-primer removal setup.
How do I tell if my range brass is Berdan or Boxer?
Look at the headstamp. Berdan cases have two or more small flash holes and the primer is crimped. Boxer cases have a single center flash hole and the primer sits in a removable cup. 7.62×39 is the most common Berdan caliber.