Using a reliading ores with rust in the ram

You want to test-fire your handloads, but your gun's firing pin is stuck or your reloading press ram has surface rust. This page tells you exactly which solvent to use so you do not scratch the metal or damage the finish.

What you need to clean rust off guns and presses

• Hoppe’s No. 9 Gun Bore Cleaning Solvent (or similar) for steel parts.
• Flitz Instant Brass and Copper Tarnish Remover for copper/brass components.
• Soft bristle brushes (brass or nylon) to avoid scratching finishes.
• Lint-free cloths and patches.
• A stable work surface and protective eyewear.

Most rust issues on a reloading press are on the handle threads, the main frame, or the top of the ram. On a gun, it is usually the firing pin, hammer, or cylinder. Match the cleaner to the metal before you start. We go through choosing durable nitrile or latex step by step in its own article.

If you are unsure, treat it as steel and use gun solvent, but avoid getting solvent into sensitive bushings on the press.

Step 1: Disassemble and dry the parts

1. Ensure the firearm is unloaded and the chamber is clear. Follow the owner’s manual to remove the firing pin, hammer, or slide.
2. For the reloading press, remove the dies and check the body for surface rust on the threads or the top ram area. If the ram is exposed, check the top face where the die seats.
3. Wipe away moisture with a dry cloth. Do not apply solvent to wet parts; it just dilutes and spreads the rust instead of lifting it.

Surface rust often forms because of humidity or condensation in a storage closet. If the part is still damp, wait for it to dry completely. Applying cleaner to a wet surface creates a slurry that is hard to remove and can stain aluminum or anodized parts.

Step 2: Treat steel parts with gun solvent

If the rust is on the firing pin, hammer, or the press body (steel), use Hoppe’s No. 9. This solvent is safe for most gun finishes and breaks down iron oxide effectively.

1. Soak a patch or cloth in the solvent.
2. Wrap the part and let it sit for 15-30 minutes. This loosens the rust crystals from the metal pores.
3. Wipe with a dry cloth. Repeat until no orange residue comes off.
4. Apply a thin layer of gun oil to protect the metal from future moisture.

For the reloading press frame, avoid getting solvent into any lubricated bushings if applicable, or wipe them clean immediately after. If the rust is pitting deep into the metal of the press ram, the solvent will not remove the pitting, but it will stop the spread and make the part safe to use for reloading.

Step 3: Clean brass and copper dies with Flitz

Your reloading dies and brass cases are often brass or copper. Rust here is actually tarnish or oxidation, which looks like a dark brown or black film rather than red flake. We cover top 3 in 1 clp kits in a guide of its own.

1. Shake the Flitz can well.
2. Apply a thin layer to the die or case with a cloth. Focus on the faces of the dies and the rims of the cases.
3. Let it sit for 10-20 minutes. You will see a dark reaction as it works. This is normal chemical action.
4. Rinse thoroughly with water and dry immediately with a soft cloth.

Flitz is excellent for restoring the mirror finish on brass dies, which ensures consistent crimping and sizing for your ammunition. Do not use it on steel parts, as it is formulated for non-ferrous metals and can cause spotting if not rinsed properly from steel.

Step 4: Scrubbing stubborn rust (if needed)

If surface rust remains on the barrel of your test gun or the external housing of the press, you may need mechanical removal. Solvent alone might not lift thick, flaky rust.

1. Use a brass bristle brush (like the Kwalitistar set) attached to a rod or held by hand. For the press ram, use a small hand-held brush.
2. Gently scrub the rusted area. Brass is softer than steel and won’t scratch the finish easily. For aluminum press parts, use a nylon brush instead.
3. Follow up with solvent and oil to remove residue.

Avoid wire brushes on blueed finishes or aluminum press parts, as they will strip the finish and leave microscopic scratches that collect future rust. If the metal is pitted through, replace the part rather than trying to scrape it smooth, as this can affect safety or sizing accuracy.

Common mistakes when cleaning rust from guns and presses

• Using steel wool on finished guns: This scratches the blue finish and traps rust particles in the pores of the metal. Instead, use solvent and a cloth.
• Leaving solvent on gun parts: Solvent can strip factory lubricants and attract dirt if left to dry. Wipe dry and oil immediately.
• Mixing cleaners: Do not use Flitz (chemical) and Hoppe’s (solvent) on the same part in rapid succession without cleaning in between. Use the correct chemical for the metal.
• Forgetting to dry: Rust returns quickly if moisture remains in the pores. Dry all parts thoroughly before reassembly.

One of the most frequent errors with reloading presses is ignoring the ram face. If the ram is rusted, it can leave marks on the die faces and foul your cases. Always inspect the top of the press after cleaning the frame.

The bottom line

Frequently asked questions